Without a service panel upgrade, homeowners will experience several issues due to an outdated panel. Flickering lights, odd sounds from a fuse box, tripping breakers, and even even cars that require this kind of circuit.

If you’re constantly dealing with lighting issues or your outlets just don’t seem to work as well as they use to, then don’t procrastinate. Upgrading your service panel can clearly help in so many ways, especially when it comes down your family and their safety. Always call an electrician if you sense a problem with your service panel, that way they can assess the issue and clearly identify a solution.

Any building, in any industry, in any area of the world, is susceptible to having potentially hazardous and radioactive exit signs installed throughout their building.

This could mean they are in schools, near your office, or anywhere else where a radioactive setting probably isn’t a desired situation to be in.

This is why we thought it was necessary to create this post to help and guide you towards identifying, removing, and finally replacing your radioactive exit signs with new signs that are much safer and even efficient, saving you money over other alternatives.

Firstly before we can remove and replace these seemingly nuclear exit signs, you have to be able to identify if you have them or not. But before that, lets explain what exactly makes these exit signs radioactive.

How are some exit signs radioactive?

Just the same way as some exit signs are safe, it is all in the way they are built. For some reason, whether it be technology of the time or something else, people assumed it was a good idea to create exit signs with Tritium, also known as 3H or H-3. Tritium is a radioactive isotope of hydrogen, causing exit signs made with this to be radioactive by default. The only seemingly positive upside to these exit signs is that they are non-electrical, meaning they won’t rack up anything in electricity bills.

But before you become alarmed with what we have shared with you so far, tritium emits only a low-energy beta radiation, which in turn causes the sealed glass tube it is in to glow (causing the exit sign to give off the illumination it requires). Thankfully, it is rather well known that this type of radiation can hardly (if at all) penetrate a piece of paper or clothing. So while yes it is a very low level (energy wise) type of radiation, the fact that there are alternatives that will remove radiation entirely from your building is all the reason to uninstall your tritium exit signs and replace them with something more safe, like LED exit signs.

Now that you understand the technology and how tritium in exit signs work a little bit more, let’s go over how exactly you can identify whether or not you have these types of exit signs in your building.

Identifying a radioactive exit sign should be fairly easy. All of these signs are required to have some sort of “Caution of Radioactive Material” warning on the fixture.

If you do find such a warning label, it is safe to say your light is made of tritium. Another tell-tale sign is whether or not your signs are connected to an electrical source or not as tritium signs do not require any such connection.

Once you’ve identified if you have a tritium exit sign or not, if you do happen to have one, you may continue on to removing and replacing it with the alternative exit sign, LED.

As with any lighting fixture, we recommend to bring in a professional contractor to do the job. But as a general guideline, you can typically recycle your tritium signs by returning them to the manufacturer or place of purchase.

If you purchased the building with them pre-installed and are unsure of where they came from after inspection of the signs for any brand markings, you can try two things:

1: Try contacting the previous building owner or collect records of where they were manufactured

2: Recycle them with a third party. like these), buying them, then installing them yourself or with a professional (we recommend a professional).

Here are a few things you should remember and keep in mind when dealing with a building that has radioactive exit signs:

2. In order to open the headlight housing, it must be heated to soften the glue that seals it. Preheat the oven to 270 degrees Fahrenheit, and place the housing in the oven (top rack). Heat the housing for approximately seven minutes. Note that this time will vary by vehicle manufacturer and that you should be careful not to overheat your assembly. Also note that the headlight will be hot when removing it from the oven, so take care not to burn yourself.

*Please note that this can damage your headlight assembly and that you do so at your own risk.

4. LED angel eye installation will vary by headlight. In this instance, we mounted an

5. Place the second layer back in the housing to ensure that everything is aligned the way you would like. This is also a great time to clean the inside housing, as you will not be able to do so once you reseal it. The cleaner you get it the better; smudges and dirt will be more visible when the lights are on.

8. Now it’s time to reseal the headlight housing. Preheat the oven to 270 degrees again, place the layers together, and put the headlight in the oven (with halo rings installed) for seven minutes. Remove the headlight from the oven, and press the layers together firmly as you work around the lens to ensure all of the edges are sealed (this might require gloves, as the headlight will be somewhat hot). Be careful to only press on the edges so as not to warp the lens.

*Please note that this can damage your headlight assembly and that you do so at your own risk.

10. With the headlight housing installed, complete your wiring, and test connections to ensure proper installation. Be sure to tape/heat-shrink any wiring connections that were added, and clean up any loose wiring.