We all know or at least heard that converting from Metal Halide (High Intensity Discharge) to LED will save you money.

But how much? Are there any other reasons or difference you should know about?

In this article, we break down all the factors that you should be aware of before making a decision to convert from Metal Halide to LED. Here are the 9 reasons we think LED wins over Metal Halide.

Let’s take a look at the information on a typical 400 watt metal halide bulb. While specifications may vary, a visit to a popular online website that sells Metal Halide bulbs shows that a brand new bulb has the following specifications:

We have just as many customers wanting to convert to LED because of maintenance savings as they do for energy savings. Think about what we discussed, over the life of the LED retrofit kit, a customer would have to do 5-6 Metal Halide replacements. The higher the installation height, the higher the cost of replacement. And if you have a facility loaded with lights, this becomes a significant budget amount every year that you must take into consideration. Now, we know that reduced maintenance time on lights does not translate into dollars saved because it is highly unlikely that people will lose their jobs over the fact there is much less work to do. However, these people will have time to now work on things that matter, like fixing the machines that make the company money instead on replacing lights that cost the company money.

When you take a measurement of light with a light meter, it reads lumens. And this measurement of all the lights that contribute to the light at that location creates a measurement called foot candles. But let’s think about that light that is being measured. Metal Halide creates all sorts of light, in all spectrum’s, visible or otherwise. This includes UV and IR spectrum’s, visible to the measuring device but not visible to the human eye. LED, on the other hand, does not produce UV and IR. Therefore, its readings using the same light meter is only picking up visible spectrum’s.

So there is a fun little test you can do. Have 2 light sources, LED and Metal Halide. And first ask, which one is brighter? And if the right LED source was selected, they should say LED. And then use a light meter, and the light meter may say the Metal Halide area is producing more foot candles. And so now you know part of the reason, but wait, there’s 2 other pieces of information you need to know.

Click here to see our infographic on Retrofitting vs Replacing.

Conclusion

The traditional lighting style–while tasteful and low-key–provides just the right touch when you want to draw the eye to a design focal point without overpowering it. Few lighting styles work as unobtrusively as transitional chandeliers while managing to showcase an advanced stylishness for discerning design aficionados. You can choose from Capitol’s vast selection of lighting features that include:

• Multiple glass shade shapes

• Brass, crystal and metal finishes to complement existing or planned furnishings

• Finishes that include bronze tones, gold accents, brushed nickel, polished nickel, clear and crystal

• Fixture styles that include pendant lights, chandeliers, mini chandeliers, island lights, flush-mounted lights, recessed lighting and track and rail lighting

• Bulb types that include incandescent, fluorescent, halogen and LED technologies

• Energy Star lighting efficiency

• Title 24 compliant

• Dimmable fixtures

When it comes to electrical tasks in yousitur home, it’s never a good idea to turn them into a DIY project. Electricity is a very necessary and useful utility, but can be extremely dangerous too and it’s crucial that you call in a certified, skilled and insured electrician to handle the job for you. Look for a professional and reputed company that provides 24/7 services and keep their number easily accessible at all times; this will ensure you get prompt services exactly when you need them. Here we discuss in which situations you should call in an emergency electrician to tackle the job for you:

This is extremely dangerous and you should immediately turn-off the circuit breaker that you feel is connected to that wire. Do not try to repair this yourself as there could be a chance that the circuit breaker you turned off isn’t connected to that particular room wire at all and this exposes you to the risk of electrocution.

This is a situation you shouldn’t take lightly at all. It’s important that you keep all your family members and pets away from that room and switch off the circuit breaker you think is connected to that wiring line. If you have any water pooling, puddling or accumulated (as in a flood situation), call in a skilled electrician to check all the wiring and address the problem without delay, as this is a major electrocution risk.

It’s not often that a home will lose power completely, while there is no similar problem in the neighbourhood. However, if the power does go out only in your home, quickly check with your neighbours and check whether the street lights have also lost power. If everything seems to be alright there, you may have a major electrical problem on your hands.

In all these situations, do not try to find out what the problem is; call in a licensed, local electrician to inspect the wiring and other electrical fittings and fix the problem. The point we are trying to make here is that if you in any way feel that an electrical installation or appliance is unsafe, call in an electrician without delay.

The one way to reduce the chances of an electrical problem from occurring is to get regular electrical maintenance done. The company you hire for the job will send out skilled professionals at pre-decided schedules to conduct a thorough check on the wiring. In case any potential problems are noticed, you will be informed about them and they will be addressed without delay. This reduces the chances of major electrical problems surfacing out of the blue.

We at Allround Electricals will check the system carefully and check it for any other potential faults as well. For more information, contact our friendly team at this number – 1300 169 263. You can also write to us at this email address.

Thanks for reading,1300 169 263

Understanding common household light bulb shapes, sizes, and styles is important whether you’re converting outdated incandescent fixtures into energy-efficient ones or using LED bulbs for new-construction applications. Every light bulb has identifying characteristics that are represented by a letter or series of letters and a number; these are known as light bulb codes. The letter or letters in a bulb code indicate either shape or special features such as reflector type. Numbers in a bulb code indicate size in millimeters or eighths of an inch. These codes will tell you if a bulb will fit in your fixture and if it’s the right shape.

For every light fixture or application, there’s going to be a specific bulb or light bulb shape that will fit best and provide the right type of light. If you understand bulb codes, it’s easy to look at a light fixture and know right away what kind of bulb you’ll need.

Let’s talk about light bulb groups, their bulb codes, and what applications those bulbs are typically used for.

Standard/arbitrary (A) bulbs are the most widely used and thought of when it comes to household lighting. These bulbs work well for a variety of applications, such as ceiling lights, lamps, vanity lights, kitchen lights, closet lights, porch light fixtures, and so many more.

Numbers in each code refer to the bulb’s diameter in one-eighths of an inch.

A15 bulb: 15/8 = 1-7/8″ diameter

A19 bulb: 19/8 = 2-3/8″ diameter

A21 bulb: 21/8 = 2-5/8″ diameter

A25 bulb: 25/8 = 3-1/8″ diameter

Most common base types:

Globe (G) bulbs have a full, round shape and are available in various sizes. They can be used for many applications throughout the home, such as foyer lights, kitchen lights, chandeliers, and ornamental fixtures. The most common type is the large G30 bulb, which is used in bathroom and makeup vanities.

Depending on the bulb, numbers in each code can refer to the bulb’s diameter in one-eighths of an inch or in millimeters.

G11 bulb: 11/8 = 1-3/8″ diameter

G14 bulb: 14/8 = 1-3/4″ diameter

G16/G50: 16/8 = 2″ diameter

G60: 60 millimeters = 2-3/8″ diameter

G25/G80: 80 millimeters = 3-9/64″ diameter

G30: 30/8 = 3-3/4″ diameter

Most common base types:

All of the bulbs in these groups resemble the shape of a candle flame and are often referred to as candle bulbs. Conical (C) bulbs are shaped like a cone. Conical angular (CA) bulbs are shaped like a cone but have a bent tip. Blunt-tip (B) bulbs are very similar to C-type bulbs but have more of a torpedo or bullet shape. These bulbs can be used in chandeliers, wall sconces, pendant lights, night lights, decorative light strands, holiday light strands, and other decorative home lighting applications.

Numbers in each code refer to the bulb’s diameter in one-eighths of an inch.

B10 bulb: 10/8 = 1-1/4″ diameter

CA10 bulb: 10/8 = 1-1/4″ diameter

C7 bulb: 7/8 = 7/8″ diameter

C9 bulb: 9/8 = 1-1/8″ diameter

C15 bulb: 15/8 = 1-7/8″ diameter

Most common base types:

BR stands for bulged reflector. Traditionally, the inside surface of an incandescent BR bulb is covered in reflector material that is used to gather and cast a wide beam of light away from the bulb. LED BR bulbs don’t require the reflector material. These bulbs can have a frosted, clear, or patterned dome-shaped lens that diffuses light and provides a gradual fade into nonilluminated areas. BR bulbs also produce less shadows when compared to PAR bulbs. They’re a bit longer than PAR bulbs and tend to protrude from light housings but are used in similar applications, such as track lights, recessed lights, display lights, or can lights.

BR20 bulbs are often referred to as R20 but have the same characteristics of other BR bulb types. The R stands for reflector.

Numbers in each code refer to the bulb’s diameter in one-eighths of an inch.

BR20/R20 bulb: 20/8 = 2-1/2″ diameter

BR30 bulb: 30/8 = 3-3/4″ diameter

BR40 bulb: 40/8 = 5″ diameter

Most common base type:

Multifaceted reflector (MR) bulbs are small in size with a reflective, faceted interior. The facets create a concentrated beam of light that can be displayed in a narrow spot or wide flood beam pattern. Because of the directional light they provide, MR LED bulbs don’t require the facets but often still have them. These bulbs are available in a variety of colors and can be used for many applications, including track lighting, recessed lighting, desk lights, and display case lighting. Many MR bulbs operate on low-voltage wiring systems, which makes them great for outdoor and landscape applications such as driveway lights, path lights, gazebo lights, paver lights, and malibu lights that have weatherproof housings.

Numbers in each code refer to the bulb’s diameter in one-eighths of an inch.

MR11 bulb: 11/8 = 1-3/8″ diameter

MR16 bulb: 16/8 = 2″ diameter

Most common base types:

Tubular (T) bulbs come in a variety of lengths and widths. Depending on their size, these bulbs can be used in applications ranging from chandeliers, wall sconces, and pendant lights to basement and garage troffer light fixtures.

Numbers in each code refer to the bulb’s diameter in one-eighths of an inch.

T7 bulb: 7/8 = 7/8″ diameter

T8 bulb: 8/8 = 1″ diameter

T10 bulb: 10/8 = 1-1/4″ diameter

T14 bulb: 14/8 = 1-3/4″ diameter

Most common base types:

The living room seems a little dim, you think. Here’s the DIY solution you cook up: you head over to the hardware store, buy a brighter bulb, screw it into the nearest lamp and bask in the incandescent glow. Easy, right?Not exactly. Using a lightbulb with higher-than-recommended wattage for a specific fixture is known as overlamping. This seemingly innocent practice is actually surprisingly dangerous, and is one of the leading causes of house fires in the United States — right up there with candles, smoking and cooking mishaps.

Overlamping is one of the most commonly overlooked mistakes a homeowner can make, and it can be deadly. A 2011 electrical fire that killed 11 people in Brisbane — the according to home improvement blogger Taryn Williford. When you place an incandescent bulb with wattage that’s too high in the socket of a lamp that cannot provide the required electrical output, the ensuing heat and intensity of the bulb can scorch or melt the socket and the insulation of the lamp's wiring.  

Now you have prime conditions for arc fault. An arc fault occurs when a spark jumps through the air between exposed wires. This sounds dangerous, yes? It is — in fact, the National Fire Protection Agency and the National Association of State Fire Marshals electrical power. A CFL often has a tubular shape atop the familiar screw-bottom.

An LED (light-emitting diode) light is directional, rather than radiant. This allows the LED to use much less energy than an incandescent light or even a CFL. LEDs can also directly replace incandescent bulbs in some cases.

CFLs use a much lower wattage than incandescent bulbs and create far less heat, making overlamping situations far less likely. LEDs also use much less electricity and even remain cool to the touch. The risks of overlamping are negligible.

There are drawbacks to any lighting solution. Incandescent (even halogen) lights are energy inefficient. CFLs are made from materials that are terrible for the environment. LEDs burn out at a quicker rate. The right light for you is the light that makes you most comfortable in your home — and that’s a decision you need to make.

If you live in Maryland, Northern Virginia or Washington, D.C. and need schedule electrical repair service online now.