A common lighting technology in the commercial space is metal halide, at least in the past it was. At an ever increasing rate, businesses are actively searching for a more efficient lighting system that will allow them to cut energy consumption and in turn; reduce overhead expenses.

When companies or facility managers start their search, they often search for the wrong answer. Here are some common questions that we are asked:

“How many watts does it take to replace a 1000w metal halide light?”

“How can I replace my metal halide light?”

“Is it even possible to replace my metal halide fixture with another technology?”

This post specifically will be covering the first question, as for the other two: be sure to subscribe to our email list to know when new posts go live, we are always pushing out informational content to answer your questions just like these ones!

So.. How many watts does it take to replace a 1000 watt metal halide fixture?

It’s simple a simple concept, yet not at the same time. In short, it’s impossible to know just from that question alone. The reason for this is simple too: you can’t base your decisions off of watts alone. Instead, you need to be basing your decisions off of lumens.

What is a LED equivalent to a 1000w metal halide you can easily find fixtures that output at over 100+ lumens / watt. Especially when you go with quality products from reputable companies, you can reach higher than a 150 l/w output. This will allow you to cut your wattage usage per fixture by 2-3 and sometimes 4 times which will prove to save substantial amounts of energy when you start talking about replacing multiple fixtures.

So we’ve explained what it takes to replace your 1000w metal halide fixture, but what does “replacing” consist of?

Replacing can consist of two things: write in to one of our professionals with your questions.

As its name implies, an Arc-fault Circuit Interrupter is designed to detect electrical arcing, and turn off the current to wiring or appliances where arcing is occurring. An electrical arc occurs anytime an electric current jumps through a gap or air space between two conductors. This typically produces a visible spark or sparks. We’re all familiar with small sparks which can be seen inside electric tools and motors, and tiny sparks which may occur when we plug an electrical device into a wall outlet. Small levels of arcing are normal and benign in these places, but dangerous arcing is a different matter. Dangerous levels of arcing can involve damaged insulation, worn or broken conductors, many other electrical problems. This type of arcing is the single greatest cause for electrical fires across our continent and has resulted in hundreds of human fatalities, hundreds of thousands of fires, and billions of dollars in property damages. AFCI’s are designed to detect dangerous levels of arcing while ignoring benign occurrences. When dangerous arcing occurs, an AFCI will immediately detect this and turn off the electrical current for the affected circuit. If someone tries to reset the AFCI, and it trips again rapidly, this is typically an indicator of a larger problem.

While a GFCI is designed to detect electricity which has become shorted to ground, an AFCI is designed to detect arcing within wiring or electrical devices or appliances. AFCI units look a lot like circuit breakers and are typically located inside breaker boxes, rather than outlets. However, they are able to detect dangerous arcing conditions a breaker cannot detect. In addition, AFCIs are manufactured for circuits carrying up to 100 amps, so they can protect buildings from arcing in large equipment like stoves and central air units.

AFCIs have been developed and mandated by law to protect lives and property from electrical fires caused by arcing. However, many older homes and buildings have not been retrofitted with these devices and remain unprotected. To make matters worse, older buildings are more likely to have outdated wiring and appliances, and insulation problems and other conditions which cause arcing problems.

If you are concerned about your wiring and would like to schedule a safety inspection, call Bryant Electric Service at 512-402-8587. Our electricians are licensed and equipped to inspect electrical systems, and can determine if your home or building is sufficiently protected by AFCI protective devices.

The living room seems a little dim, you think. Here’s the DIY solution you cook up: you head over to the hardware store, buy a brighter bulb, screw it into the nearest lamp and bask in the incandescent glow. Easy, right?Not exactly. Using a lightbulb with higher-than-recommended wattage for a specific fixture is known as overlamping. This seemingly innocent practice is actually surprisingly dangerous, and is one of the leading causes of house fires in the United States — right up there with candles, smoking and cooking mishaps.

Overlamping is one of the most commonly overlooked mistakes a homeowner can make, and it can be deadly. A 2011 electrical fire that killed 11 people in Brisbane — the according to home improvement blogger Taryn Williford. When you place an incandescent bulb with wattage that’s too high in the socket of a lamp that cannot provide the required electrical output, the ensuing heat and intensity of the bulb can scorch or melt the socket and the insulation of the lamp's wiring.  

Now you have prime conditions for arc fault. An arc fault occurs when a spark jumps through the air between exposed wires. This sounds dangerous, yes? It is — in fact, the National Fire Protection Agency and the National Association of State Fire Marshals electrical power. A CFL often has a tubular shape atop the familiar screw-bottom.

An LED (light-emitting diode) light is directional, rather than radiant. This allows the LED to use much less energy than an incandescent light or even a CFL. LEDs can also directly replace incandescent bulbs in some cases.

CFLs use a much lower wattage than incandescent bulbs and create far less heat, making overlamping situations far less likely. LEDs also use much less electricity and even remain cool to the touch. The risks of overlamping are negligible.

There are drawbacks to any lighting solution. Incandescent (even halogen) lights are energy inefficient. CFLs are made from materials that are terrible for the environment. LEDs burn out at a quicker rate. The right light for you is the light that makes you most comfortable in your home — and that’s a decision you need to make.

If you live in Maryland, Northern Virginia or Washington, D.C. and need schedule electrical repair service online now.

Summer is right around the corner, which, for us here in Maryland, Virginia and Washington, D.C., generally means extreme humidity, unpredictable weather patterns and, in recent years, rolling blackouts. Although we have all undoubtedly been looking forward to warmer days after this volatile past winter, summertime is not without its headaches.

It was just last summer that a massive blackout left millions along the Atlantic Coast without power after devastating thunderstorms downed tree limbs and power lines across the region on June 30. Shortly after the power outage, the state of Maryland ordered a heat advisory, warning elderly and infirmed individuals to stay indoors. However, because of the blackout, millions were left without the air conditioning they relied upon to make temperatures indoors more tolerable. As a result, area hospitals that were already crowded following the storms were flooded with even more patients suffering from heat exhaustion and dehydration.