The weather outside bas been quite hot as the temperature has been reaching and exceeding the 30’s lately. Your electrical bill is probably rising with the temperature as well. Now is the time that many people start visiting stores in search of an air conditioning unit. This is a great way to cool down your home, but if your home’s electrical system is not prepared for the electrical load or you purchase the wrong unit, you could be left sweating more money than you expected.

Window-mounted air conditioning units are quite common to see in bedrooms or living rooms. These can be purchased from any local home appliance store. These units are mounted in the window and secured. These units pump in cold air and exhaust hot air to the outside – great for rooms that are frequented and difficult to keep cool.

The small units can also be purchased from your local appliance store. These smaller units cannot cool the same amount of area as a window-mounted unit, but can do the trick for small areas that you want to keep cool. The advantage of these is that you can move them from room to room quickly with little setup and takedown. One disadvantage of these units is that they tend to be quite noisy.

You may be fortunate enough to have one of these installed in your home. Central air units can be connected by ducts throughout the house and regulate the temperature set in the home. A central air unit is great for getting a consistently cool temperature in any room in the home while also keeping the noise to a minimum. One trick when it comes to central air is to ensure that you get a unit that matches the square footage for your home. If your air conditioning unit is too large for your home it may not properly dehumidify your home and run on short cycles.

When purchasing an A/C unit you want to ensure that you have a timer and energy-saver option. This will help keep your monthly electrical bills down. Energy efficient units will use less electricity and timer options can prevent the units from running when they are not needed. You also want to make sure that the unit is the appropriate size for your room or home. If the unit is too large it will cycle off quickly and can freeze air moisture without removing it, which can lead to a higher electrical bill.

If you are in the market for a new air conditioning unit for your home, make sure you do adequate research to ensure you are purchasing the right unit at the right size. Read the package for the required voltage and wattage. If you are adding an A/C unit in your home you could overload electrical circuits that are no prepared. If you have questions about your home’s electrical efficiency in the summer, call Expert Electric at 604-681-8338.

If you’re dying to install your new instructions for how to install a light bar. These instructions include options for installations with or without a wire harness and for connecting to existing LED lights. Installation will vary based on the type of vehicle, existing lighting setup, and chosen wiring method, but these instructions can serve to give you a general idea of the process. Light bar mounting instructions are also available and are listed by WH-DTS10, WWH-DTD30; (ATP) WH-ATPD20, sdoptional mounting brackets; be sure not to overtighten the hardware (you will need to adjust it in step 7).

3. Route the lighting side of the wiring harness from the battery to the light in a safe, secure manner. Connect the harness to the light. Be sure to avoid heat sources and any moving parts while running your wires. Prolonged chafing of the wires may lead to a short in the circuit. Typically, following the vehicle manufacturer’s wiring harness is a safe path to follow. Some lights may not have DT or ATP connections on them, but the connectors can be added from the harness kit or purchased separately (ATP-FPT).

4. Continue to route the switch portion of the harness to the desired location of the switch. The switch may need to be unplugged from the harness to make routing of the harness easier. An optional remote-controlled switch (RS-x) are also available with different legends.

5. Connect the black (ground) wire with the large ring terminal from the harness to the negative battery terminal. Connect the red (power) wire with the large ring terminal from the harness to the positive battery terminal.

6. Secure the relay to a suitable location, and test the light to make sure the circuit works.

7. Finally, aim the light in the desired direction, and tighten all mounting hardware.

3. Connect the black ground wire of the new light to the ground wire of the old light with solder and heat shrink tubing (PSC-x). Connect the red power wire of the new light to the power wire of the old light.

4. If the new LED work light or off-road light bar has an ATP or DT connector that you wish to utilize, corresponding ATP (DT-MPT) pigtails are available.

5. Finally, aim the lights in the proper direction, and tighten all mounting hardware.

1. Find a suitable mounting location that will allow for running wires and mounting the LED light bar. Mark where your holes will be for the light bar brackets or mounting feet. Check behind drilling locations to ensure nothing will be damaged. Drill appropriate-sized holes.

2. Mount the lights with the provided hardware or with DT-MPT or RRS-SP, RRS-SPx, or RCS-RF25A) under your hood to speed up install time and avoid routing wires through your vehicle’s firewall. Route another run of red wire from the pigtail adapter (connected to the light) to the output terminal of the switch. Be sure to avoid heat sources and any moving parts while running your wires. Prolonged chafing of the wires may lead to a short in the circuit. Typically, following the vehicle manufacturer’s wire harness is a safe path to follow.

4. Be sure to double-check for all obstructions and proper clearance. Drill an appropriate sized hole for the switch, and mount it.

5. Connect your black wire to the negative battery terminal. Connect your red wire to the switch input terminal and to the positive battery terminal with an appropriate-sized fuse holder (MAF-x) installed within 18 inches of the battery. You will have to cut your section of red wire to allow for the fuse holder to be installed between the switch and battery. Connect your other run of red wire to the switch output terminal.

6. Finally, aim the lights in the proper direction and tighten all mounting hardware.

If you’re longing for a bulb that’s going to save energy and that lasts, this LED bulb replacement guide is a great place to get a feel for the type you might need. Other than finding a bulb that fits the socket, has the correct voltage, and meets wattage requirements, there’s no list of rules as to what bulb you should use in a certain fixture. This guide shows that even the same type of fixtures can require or accept different bulb types. LED replacement bulbs are available in a variety of wattages, intensities, voltages, and with different base types; they can even emit different colors of light. You have the freedom to choose a bulb that fits your needs, and there are plenty of available options.

Clicking each picture below will direct you to a page of similar bulbs. Keep in mind, this post just touches the surface of available LED bulbs. If you don’t see what you need, use our site to see hundreds of lighting options.

Track light fixtures are found in many homes and allow for aimable illumination exactly where it’s needed. These fixtures almost always contain MR11 spotlight bulbs. In addition to track lights, these bulbs are often used in recessed, pendant, display case, and desk light fixtures. MR16 and MR11 LED replacement bulbs have GU10 or GX5.3 bi-pin bases and are available in a wide variety of styles with many LED configurations.